2)Trim the motor down and place a catch basin below. Remove the bottom plug first, then the top plug to drain the lower end gear oil. Take note of the condition of the oil. Normal oil would be close to the original or black indicating old oil requiring changing. If the oil is white or creamy, this indicates a problem with the seals. Metal filings in the oil or on the plug you removed, indicate gear damage. Don't forget the environment and dispose of your oil through your towns recyling center.
3)Remove the propellar. Check for any fishing line, which might damage the seals. Then grease the shaft and replace the propeller.
4)Use a good quality marine grease and hit all the grease nipples, steering cable and starter shaft. If the steering cable is caked with oil dried up grease, spray it first with WD40 and wipe clean and dry.
5)Make sure you have a can of fogging spray on hand. Make sure you have water connected to the lower unit for cooling. Remove the engine hood and carburetor cover if applicable. Start up the outboard and let it get up to operating temperature. Disconnect the fuel hose or shut off the fuel valve on small motors, while the engine is running. As the motor is running out of fuel, spray the fogging seal into the carburetors until the exhaust is smoking. The engine interior will now be coated with a protective film of oil, which will prevent rusting of the bearings and other internal components.
6)Motors with power trim should be stored in the down position.
*** Tune-ups should be done in the spring because plugs will be coated with oil all winter.
2)If the boat is equiped with a trolling motor, remove the propeller. Check for any fishing line, which might damage the seals. Check the electrical connections and clean as required. Remove the trolling motor and store inside for the winter.
3)Check all electrical devices (depth finders, running lights, signal horn, pumps etc) to make sure they are working. If not diagnose the problem and correct it, be it fuses, corroded connections, electrical shorts etc. Remove and check all the fuses and clean or replace them. Clean all plug-in connections for depth finders, running lights etc and then give them a spray of WD40. Store all removable electrical devices inside for the winter.
4)Clean off all the battery terminals and all ring connections with medium grit sandpaper or what works best for me, an abrasive cord attachement for a variable speed drive. Top off the water level in the batteries and store them inside, but make sure they are stored up off a cement floor. Make sure the batteries are fully charged and periodically charge them over the winter.
2)Whether you do it now or in the spring, the bearings and races should be inspected yearly and replaced as required. Repack as required or grease for the winter if your inspection will be in the spring.
3)Inspect the tires and spare for condition and replace if required. Clean and apply a protective finish if desired.
4)Inspect and correct any problems with the manual or power winch. Replace any worn ropes or straps. Re-grease the winch and oil the handle. Do the same for any swivel jack.
5)Inspect and replace any worn rollers, bunks or coupler.
6)Inspect all the lights and make sure they are operating. If not, replace or correct the wiring problems so all the lights are operating as intended.
7)Smaller and lighter boats might be best stored up on blocking, larger boats should be stored with the tires properly inflated.
***Don't forget to cover the boat/trailer for protection from the elements over the winter. Inspect the tire inflation periodically over the winter.
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